The Cuttings

Bouldering in The Cuttings

The Cuttings sit on the east coast of the Isle of Portland in Dorset, carved into old railway trenches that today form one of the most popular limestone bouldering areas in southern England. The site includes the original Cuttings Boulderfield, the New Cuttings and a handful of smaller satellite crags, adding up to somewhere around 600 problems packed into a compact area. The blocks are generally small in stature, with sit-starts very much the norm, and the climbing is short, sharp and powerful — expect steep walls, positive crimps, slopers and a good helping of cranky compression lines. Grades run from easy f3 warm-ups right up to serious f7 and f8 testpieces, so it works equally well for a casual session or for projecting. The sheltered position below Rufus Castle also makes the main sector a great option when a cold westerly is blowing inland.

Portland's mild, dry climate is a huge part of the appeal: rainfall is among the lowest in the country, seepage is limited, and the rock tends to get sun early in the day, so The Cuttings work genuinely year-round. Winter and shoulder seasons give the best friction, while summer can be hot in direct sun — shaded corners help. Access is easy: a short drive through Easton to the Church Ope Cove car park, then a two-minute walk down to the crag. Landings are mostly rocky rather than flat, so a decent stack of pads and careful spotting are essential. Bouldering in The Cuttings is about quick laps, classic circuits and knowing every single problem on the beach after a few visits — a very different flavour from gritstone, and one of the best reasons to head south.